salt systems
A common misconception is that when switching to a salt generator, your pool will become a “salt water pool”. In other words, it would be like the ocean and kill bacteria based on the salinity instead of a sanitizer like chlorine.This simply isn’t the case. In simple terms yes the pool will have a concentration of salt water just like the ocean, but it couldn’t be any more different from our blue seas. The concentration of salt in the ocean can be as high as 35,000-40,000 Parts Per Million or PPM. In comparison our body is about 4,000 PPM and fresh water is considered anything below 1000 PPM salinity concentrations. The salt water pool’s “sweet spot” for salinity is between 2700 and 3400 PPM. This level is usually below what most swimmers can even taste. So if the salinity in the pool doesn’t do the sanitizing, exactly what does?The simple answer would be chlorine! Yes that’s right, salt water pools still use chlorine to kill bacteria in the water. The difference is now your pool makes chlorine from breaking the salt in to its two main parts; sodium and chloride. How does it do this, you ask? This is where the salt generator system comes into play. Each salt pool system consists of 2 separate pieces of equipment, the salt generator cell and the salt control system and power supply. Inside the salt cell are many plates stacked and charged opposite of the neigboring stack. One salt cell plate would have a negative, the next cell is a positive charge and so on. The number of plates in a salt cell is determined by the size of pool or how many gallons of water the unit can chlorinate effectively.As the salty water passes through the cell a process known as electrolysis breaks the salt down into chlorine on one side of the plates and caustic soda and hydrogen at the other. The chlorine effectively super chlorinates or shocks the water as it is created and kills off any bacteria, while a residual amount is retained to continue to sanitize. After the sanitized water passes though the salt cell, we realize the real beauty of the salt pool system. The chemical components come back together to once again form salt and the process starts all over again. So what that means is - once a pool’s salt level is brought up to a proper PPM, no additional salt will need to be added, only what is either evaporated or splashed out of the pool.
This brings me to the next question I typically get, which is “How do I determine how much salt to put in and what kind?” The first part of the question isn’t too easy as each pool will have a different amount of salt already in it. A 30,000 gallon pool would take about 800 pounds of salt added into the water to bring it to 3200PPM. There are several different ways to see how much salt is actually in the water. The most simple and least accurate is to use a salt test strip to determine salinity. The best option would be an electronic device that is dipped into the water to determine how much salt content is present - these work by simply measuring resistance of the water or how well it passes electricity.The second part of the question, "What kind of salt?" is much easier to answer. You want to get as pure salt as can be found as impurities will cause scale buildup on the cell. At least 99% pure salt is recommended by most salt generator system manufacturers, and there are now companies that are producing salt specifically branded as “pool salt” which is very pure. The pools chlorine is checked just like any other pool with the appropriate test kit. Basically, the only difference between a normal pool and a salt water pool is how the chlorine is introduced, all other aspects of maintenance are the same. Although a closer eye should be kept on water balance as an imbalance can cause scaling, corrosion or a host of other problems.The chlorine generator salt cell may be the business end of the system, but the heart and soul would be the salt controller and power supply. This piece of electronics is the most expensive component in the system and it is also the most technically advanced. Most systems on the market now will tell you when you have a low/high salt condition, and will have a few different settings for chlorine output. The more advanced systems can be as sophisticated as to tell you the exact salt PPM and even how much chlorine is in the pool. They can also let the user know of any problems with the cell and clean the cell automatically when needed or alert the user to the need to clean scale from the salt cell.Most salt water systems can be hooked up to a total pool controller system which monitors every aspect of the pools chemistry and can control all systems for a completely hands off approach to pool maintenance. Most control units also have a super chlorinate or “shock” function when needed to get rid of any chloramines that may be present or after a high bather load is experienced. During warm summer months the system may need a longer run time to fully sanitize the pool water and to prevent algae growth. The control system also converts the 110 volt household current to 12 volt or 24 dc power for the cells electrolysis plates.All in all there are a lot of benefits to going to a salt system, the major one being that chlorine tablets will never need to be purchased again as the pool makes its own. Most swimmers in a salt pool report that the water feels softer and their skin felt smoother and softer after a swim. Also a homeowner will not have to touch chlorine which can be dangerous to your health and skin. There is however, other maintenance that needs to be performed, such as making sure a stabilizer is used and enough present (CYA levels between 60-80PPM like any other pool) so the chlorine doesn’t simply bleach out in the sun. Also a close eye on water balance, especially PH and Calcium Hardness levels, should be kept to avoid any scaling or corrosive conditions.Another benefit is that most swimmers won’t feel the effects of the chlorine as much because most chloramines, the used up chlorine that typically causes most eye/skin irritation, is burned up when electrolysis happens.To begin a discussion about salt systems We usually find it best to dispel some popular myths at the outset.
myth #1
Salt pools are easier to maintain than standard chlorine pools.
Many pool builders tell their customers that all you have to do with a salt system is throw in a bag of salt now and then. Nothing can be further from the truth. Maintaining a salt pool is at least as involved as maintaining a standard chlorine pool. There are benefits and drawbacks to each system. Careful consideration should be made before deciding which is best for you.
myth#2
Salt pools do not contain chlorine
Salt pools use salt and electricity to produce chlorine, not replace it.
myth#3
Salt pools are less expensive to maintain than standard chlorine pools.
While it’s true that you save by not buying chlorine, you need more specialty chemicals. The salt system itself has a limited lifespan and must be repaired or replace periodically, and these costs are not negligible.
myth#4
The salt in the water will not cause corrosion problems.
In general, the corrosion problems in salt pools are not directly caused by the salt, the exception being natural stone. Salt can attack natural stone coping, waterfalls, etc.
All that being said, let’s see exactly how a salt systems works.
How a Salt System Operates
Salt systems have three main components.SaltThe first component is plain old salt. You have to have a minimum level of about 3000 parts per million of salt in the pool water for most systems. Salt makes the water conductive so that the electricity can pass between the plates in the cell. If the salt level goes too low, then the chlorine production simply stops. Salt is also the raw material from which the chlorine is produced.Control BoxThe control unit is a device that sends power to the salt cell. The unit controls how much chlorine is produced by regulating how long the power is applied to the cell. If you turn the control knob way down, then the unit might apply power to the cell only 25% of the time, thereby producing less chlorine. If you turn the control knob up, then the unit would apply power to the cell for a longer period of time. The amount of power applied to the cell does not increase or decrease.The control unit will often sense the level of salt in the pool and indicate the need to add more salt.Salt CellThe salt cell is placed in the return line of the pool equipment. The cell contains a series of plates with opposite charges in a cell. As the water passes between the plates, electrolysis takes place, releasing the chlorine in the salt. The chlorine attacks bacteria and algae, and is converted back into salt.
Advantages and disavantages of salt systems
ADVANTAGES The most obvious advantage to a salt system is you don’t have to buy, store, or handle chlorine.As chlorine can be quite noxious to handle, this can be a major advantage for those that are sensitive to chemicals.The salt system produces a stream of free chlorine, this virtually eliminates the need for shocking the pool. No need to stay out of the pool during the shock treatment, and no build up of chloramines.By adding salt, the water is softened, giving it a silky, comfortable feel. Between the softness and the absence of chloramines, the water in a salt pool will be less irritating to the eyes and skin.
DISADVANTAGESOne of the main disadvantages to a salt system is that the chlorine it produces has a very high PH. This causes the PH of the water to rise, requiring more frequent adjustment. The swings in PH can cause staining of the pool surface. If left unchecked, a high PH will also corrode the equipment. So although you will not need to handle chlorine, you will need to add acid more frequently, and acid is also a noxious chemical to handle.The salt water will also attack natural stone. If you have natural coping, waterfall, grottoes, etc. They will need to be treated with a sealent, and this must usually be done once a year.The average lifespan of a salt cell is three years, the replacement cost can be up to $1,000.00. The control boards will also eventually fail, requiring replacement.
troubleshooting
"System does not seem to be producing enough chlorine"
1. Check the salt level in the pool.
Check your salt level with a saltwater test kit (even if the system does not indicate low salt). The salt level indicators on salt systems can fail, especially if there are problems with the cell. If the salt level is low, add the proper amount of salt and retest a day or so later.NOTE: If the system indicates a low salt level, be sure to test it with a salt test kit before adding salt. If a salt cell is failing or is scaled it may give a false low salt indicator.2. Check the stabilizer level in the pool.
The purpose of stabilizer in the water is to help keep the chlorine from being so quickly dissipated by UV rays. If there is not enough stabilizer in the water, the pool will use chlorine at a rapid pace and the salt system will not be able to keep up. Salt water pools should have 60-80 ppm stabilizer (cyanuric acid).3. Check the settings on the control box.
Make sure the system settings are correct. Most systems can be set to run anywhere from 0 to 100% of the time. If the pool is not using a lot of chlorine (such as in the off season), the system setting should be lower. If the pool is using more chlorine, the system setting should be higher.NOTE: Do not set the control box any higher than necessary. Salt cells have a limited lifespan and if you constantly run the system at 100% you will end up with premature cell failure.3. Check the timer settings on the pool.
The system will only produce chlorine while the pump is running. If you have the system set at 100% and it is still not producing enough chlorine, then it might be necessary for you to run the pump longer.
"I added salt, but the low salt indicator is still on."
Check the salt level in the pool using a salt test kit (as described above).If the salt reading is OK according to the salt test kit, then inspect the cell. If there is scale on the plates of the cell, then soak the cell in an acid solution according to manufacturer's instructions.
"The salt level is O.K., but I am getting a "service light."
Check and clean the salt cell, then reset the system. If this does not solve the problem, call a service professional.